Friday, March 11, 2005

meteorology

Today is a muted day. If I were at home I could be sure that the sky was warning about an appoaching thunder storm, but here I have no idea. I'm feeling warm and slow and dark, and just need some familiarity. It is getting harder to keep moving forward at such a breakneck rate any more. The stimulation of a new class every day, my papers piling up, not to mention the personal drain of my service and the general chaos that is India...I feel surrounded by it all, and heavy on top of that with a longing to not be apart from what is so important to me.

Thursday, March 10, 2005

Bhodgaya: The Quest for Enlightenment

The actual experience was wonderful :-)
Luke, Brandi, Zach and I participated in a 24 hour period of silent meditation. The definition expands beyond the common conception of sitting with eyes closed in the half-lotus position, to include Walking Meditation, and mindfullness while eating and moving in general. We began our session at 5pm with Instruction, and finished at 6pm the following day.

Here is a schedule of our day:
5:00AM- Wake up
5:30AM- 1 hour Seated Meditation session
6:30AM- Practice mindful eating at Breakfast
7:00AM- 1 hour Walking Meditation
8:00AM- Seated Meditation
9:00AM- Walking Meditation
10:00AM- Seated Meditation
11:00AM- Practice mindful eating at Lunch
12:00PM- Naptime
2:00PM- Seated Meditation
3:00PM- Walking Meditation
4:00PM- Seated Meditation
5:00PM- Instruction session (speaking-when-spoken-to allowed)
6:00PM- Walking Meditation
7:00PM- Teatime
8:00PM- Seated Meditation

Anna did not participate in the session, preferring to enjoy the quiet time to relax and read, and Esty and Jess decided not to proceed with the session within the first 45 minutes of meditation. I don't think this created very much animosity within the group, although it did cause problems because while the 4 of us were off meditating, the other 3 were off shopping, eating, and spending money...which we found out later would be necessary to pay our driver, make a donation to the monastery, buy tickets to the local Buddhist temples and ruins, and feed and hydrate ourselves for the next 2 days. We ended up all running out of money becasue some of us had to spot the cash to pay for the above necessities, and had to borrow money from our driver until Brandi could get to an ATM. We are still in the process of sorting out who owes money to whom!

Pre-Meditation Session Journal Entry from Bhodgaya

..."We arrived in Bhodgaya at dawn this morning , and were incredibly hospitably welcomed by one of the monks. He told us quietly about how he has taught in San Francisco, Seattle, Hawaii and Dallas, and offered us tea and biscuits while our rooms were being cleaned. Residence at the International Meditation Centre includes free housing and provision of meals for as long as you need, one day or up to a lifetime. The grounds are small, but calm and clean, and are surrounded by a rural area where rice is cultivated and oxen are cared for by people who live in homes with walls as thick as a single brick, covered in roofs of thatched hay.

All 7 of us made the journey, though only some of us are excited by the opportunity to take instruction in meditation and practice a 24 hour period of silent mindfulness. Anna did not want to come in the first place, and Esty usually doesn't like group adventures. I am not sure whether Anna's disinterest comes only from a discomfort with the practice o meditation as a Buddhist art. I noticed also that as a Christian she did not participate in the Saraswati Puja last month...

The other visitors here, 3 men as I have seen so far, are maintaining a solitary quiet, and have been pacing the grounds with slow, deliberate footsteps, their eyes downward. I don't think that I have ever practiced mindfulness, actually practiced it, through all of my activities- walking, eating, sitting, all of these can be forms of meditation... I have inquired a sense of inquiry about the word "practice," particularly after reading "Can Humanity Change?" a dialogue between Buddhist scholars like Walpola Rahula (author of "What the Buddha Taught," read it) and the thinker Krishnamurti (Google him and find out about his foundation in California).

The other kids are sleeping now, Brandi and I are sitting outside until lunch at 11am. More and more I feel that sleeping is a waste, a way to pass through the hours without maintaining consciousness. What is the point of coming to this place if you aren't going to be awake to experience it? Although, when Brandi and I first walked about, exploring within the walls, looking at the yard, feeling the cool morning dew on our feet, noticing the garden of herbs, onions and chills growing, climbing the stairs that lead heavenward to shady balconies where all that can be heard is everything: my own breathing, the scribbling of Brandi's pen, birds chirping, monks chatting, construction going on, leaves rolling on the round, flies buzzing near my toes, a sheep bleating alone somewhere, prayer flags flapping in the wind, the nearly imperceptible footsteps of a woman carrying freshcut vegetables in a basket on her head, a man slf-consciously locking the door as quietly as possible and ten pacing away like a ballerina with toes pointed and arms behind his back...I remembered that coming to a specific sanctuary where silence, relaxation and concentration are offered, yeahes you the arbitrariness of location. You can (and should) practice life the way you see fit in whatever environment you find yourself.

I can't judge until I try the 24 hour meditation period for myself, but I am often skeptical when people so deliberately and consciously behave reverently- watching these men (dressed either in their safron-colored linen pants or the trendy jeans of their home country) I am rminded of a group of white-clad peopl from the group Ananda, who visited Shishu Bhvan. They walked around in a similar manner, observing our interactions with the children as if in prayer. For me, it is easy to mistakenly perceive strong faith in an individual or a group as something ingenuine and strived for, rather than natural and true, but I really don't feel any pretension here.

I feel comfortable wearing what I am, and I feel comfortable to un-selfconsciously do what I feel like, though I suppose in order to lose your sense of self (which is the cause of humanity's suffering, the disconnect created by a false duality) it has been prescribed to first master complete awareness of self in order to see its falseness. Krishnaji does not seek truth within organized religion, nor through the accumulation of knowledge, nor through a mediator or a guru, nor necessarily through disciplined practice- as all of these methods require not only that you identify yourself, but that you identify yourself with someone or something else as well. I feel pulled towards this, but still only know it as a concept, an idea, a theory, I don't see it as a truth. And it is not as if I am going to eventually work up to some enlightenment or insight; it isn't something you practice or try to attain, you just see, that is what there is to it.

In religion, Christianity, Hinduism, whatever, you build up karma, good deeds, positive action, righteous living, in the hopes of bearing the fruits of your labor in the next lifetime, or in heaven, or eternal life...Krishnaji radically throws all of this aside by proclaiming that he suffers now, now, and doesn't want to suffer now. But it seems unfathomable to me to dissociate from the self, to lie in truth, while maintaining an existence in this world, with its necessities like food, rest, sex, etc...is it possible to be human without being wrapped up in conditioning? The instant you are born you are in society, you have your mother and father. You can't live without being born, and you can't be born without two people before you, who had two people before them, ad infinitum. But "living," what is that? Breathing, blood flowing, brain cells flashing, movement of thought, perception of time...why be born if it makes you suffer? And why be good if there is no progress?..."

Updates on the Health Front

For some reason at this point in the semester we all seem to be dropping like flies.
Esty, Luke, and Brandi have all been suffering from some pretty severe intestinal distress, relatively consistently, for quite a long time. The three of them all made visits to the alopathic doctor today (as opposed to the homeopathic doctor to whom we usually get sent, where we are prescribed an assortment of powders and globules) because their "Cipro Bombs" (the antibiotics we came to India equipped with) have failed to do the trick. If you have the time, please include their comfort and recovery in your thoughts and prayers...

After our lecture today on the history of Ayurvedic medicine, I ironically fell ill as well. I speculate that my migraine attack was brought about by the strong cup of coffee I drank this morning, but my professor is convinced it is because of the change of seasons and weather....Either way, I could feel it coming on for about half an hour beforehand: I was uncomfortable and nauseous, and my extremities felt jittery, as if wild amounts of energy were stored in my arms and finger tips, and by the end of the lecture I had difficulty taking notes- the letters came out so slowly and were all out of order and sloppy. We returned home and I was suddenly incapacitated by vomiting. No need to worry about me though, Choto-da was there to take care of me. He comforted me by dabbing my tears and calling me his sister, then he made me drink a cup of salty, warm Electrol.

I'm pretty recovered now, after a nap in my cold dark room. Esty and I both took the afternoon off from class, and spent the time lying together under her mosquito net telling stories. We had a pleasant lunch, surprisingly. Choto-da's cooking was delicious! All home-made and fresh: chili dal, green mango chutney, little potato fritters, heaven...and we have begun eating our food with our hands, like Bengalis. Choto-da helps us by critiquing our "form." Who knew what an art it was!

This morning at breakfast the professor commented on the noticeable amount of weight that Zack has lost over the past 2 months. Even I have lost a small handful of pounds, it must have something to do with the food and the heat and the amount of energy we spend at service. Another comical health issue, which might potentially be serious, is my permanent congestion. My nose has been stuffy and snotty since our first week in India, thanks to the pollution- I don't even remember what my voice usually sounds like anymore! The worst part of the situation is that my nasal blockage seems to have moved to my ears, and I have become slightly hard of hearing, which everyone makes a lot of fun about. At least it makes it easier to fall asleep at night, amidst the throbbing city sounds of car horns and chatter. Maybe I will get that checked out when I get home...

Friday, March 04, 2005

Purulia- Rural Village and Home of Chou dancing

I returned on Tuesday afternoon from a trip to Purulia, and am already headed off again traveling. This time we are headed to Bhodgaya, where the Buddha attained enlightenment. We will be staying at the international Meditation Centre in Bihar, and I am ready for some beauty and relaxation.

Our trip to Purulia
We were accompanied by Professor Arnaub Ray (one of my personal
favorites, he is a bit nerdy, a linguist if you please)and
one of the actors who had been rehearsing the Greek tragedy on our
rooftop. After a fitful night's sleep on the barren train (no a/c, no
pillows, no blankets, no food...) we arrived early in the morning at
the surprisingly nice hotel, had breakfast, and hit the road for a
long car trip to the rural village where they make the elaborate
masks for Chou dancing. Getting to that village was relatively
anti-climactic (partially because I wasn't so interested in the masks,
nor was there much to see, though I did have a good time tickling and
chasing some of the local kids around...), but mostly because the drive
was sooo beautiful!

The rice paddies are gorgeous, there are cows and oxen and dogs and
sheep and goats all over the place, and the people are majestically picturesque.! En route we suffered several car problems (a rod fell
out of our tire, the boy's car overheated a few times, we'd have to
stop on a winding mountain road to allow trucks overburdened with
people and goods to pass...), but the breaks were great because we got
the chance to walk around, take pictures and write in our journals (I
know, nerdy). One particularly good stop was in a small village where
I got out of the car, hung out with some young rural boys, and ate
sugar cane under an enormous tamarind tree. At this stop we heard news
that the boys' car had fallen behind, and were warned of a "Mad
Elephant" on the loose....

We had two lectures (both in our hotel rooms), one was about Chou
dancing, and the other was about Jhumur, a type of beautiful classical
singing accompanied (and in my opinion OVERSHADOWED) by
out-of-this-world drumming. The highlight of the trip was the Chou
dance performance: the entire village crowded around a small cleared
area (the young children sat directly behind us vying for our
attention, the adolescent boys stood behind them staring at us, and
the rest of the village sat all around focusing on the show). The
drums are incredible! And the dance is amazing too, full of
outrageously elaborate costumes and masks, with crazy martial arts and
acrobatic stunts. Then our professor and the actor guy ( a local hero
in that village for some reason...) bought two bottles of this local
liquor, honestly similar to bathtub gin, made of flowers that
elephants occasionally get drunk from eating.

We went back to the hotel, had dinner, then lounged around with our
professor smoking cigarettes from Bangladesh and drinking this terrible alcohol. We
had to get up at 4am to catch our train, didn't get back to Calcutta
until noon, showered and had lunch, then had to go to our class at
Loreto College....Less than ideal circumstances, but well worth the journey :-)